Guide to Patek Philippe Gondolo Watches
Easily the most diverse Patek Philippe collection, the Gondolo has roots dating back to the late 1800s and has enjoyed a rich and fruitful life. Today, the Gondolo series of shaped watches – including tonneau, cushion-cornered square and ultra-feminine hour-glass cases – remains an enigma for this very focused brand. The Art Deco spirit of these men’s and women’s watches makes each Gondolo watch a timeless classic, and one worth the investment.
The Swiss and Brazilian History of the Gondolo Watch
The collection that underscores Patek Phillipe’s creativity when it comes to case shapes, Gondolo traces its history to a relationship between the Swiss watch brand and a Brazilian retailer. The first Gondolo watches were created and named exclusively for Gondolo & Labouriau, a retailer in Rio de Janeiro who worked closely with Patek from 1872 through to 1927.
This was a difficult time for European countries that were struggling with a tough economy and the potential onslaught of World War I, but Brazil was enjoying a heyday. Gondolo & Labouriau sold approximately a third of all Patek Philippe production globally. Patek Philippe was so appreciative of the business with Gondolo & Labouriau that – in addition to the watches -- it even created a specially commissioned movement in the early 1900s that featured a gear train made of 9-karat gold.
The first watches designed by Patek Philippe for the retailer were built in 1905 and were all pocket watches under the name of “Chronometro Gondolo.” Some of the watches offered 24-hour indication, while others featured chronograph functions. Over the course of almost 20 years, Patek Philippe built more than nine different-sized pocket watches for Gondolo & Labouriau. In the 1920s, it began creating wristwatches, as well. Those wristwatches were incredible pieces inspired by the Art Deco era, the Jazz era and a time of opulence and elegance. They reflected the heady lifestyle of Brazil with their unusual and distinctive case shapes.
When Patek Philippe shipped its first watch to Brazil, the brand could not have imagined the rich and colorful future it would have in the South American country. Followers of Gondolo & Labouriau – mostly men — formed an exclusive watch collectors club called the Gondolo Gang, and regularly met for picnics and parties, hanging out in three-piece suits and wearing huge straw hats with the word Patek on them. They would play a waltz composed by F. Santini, that came to be nicknamed the Patek Waltz.
During the big boom in Brazil, sales of Patek Philippe Gondolo watches were so strong that people would use the word Patek to refer to any watch, even if it wasn’t a Patek Philippe.
An Incredible Range of Gondolo Wristwatch Models
Among the most beloved wristwatches of the 1920s were the tonneau-shaped Gondolo watch in yellow gold (built in 1921) and the cushion-cornered square cased Classic Gondolo from 1923. Each of these watches inspired certain models found in today’s collection of Patek Philippe Gondolo watches. Additionally, the ladies’ Gondolo watch with stepped case – circa 1993 – served as the inspiration for the first Patek Philippe Twenty-4 collection.
Today, the Gondolo collection remains highly distinguishable and very diverse. It consists of the Ref. 4972G Gondolo Serata (translated as Evening in Italian) with hour-glass-shaped case and striking guilloche sunburst mother-of-pearl dial, the Ref. 7041 and 7042 watches with cushion-cornered cases and round dials, and the tonneau shaped Ref. 7099 Haute Joaillerie Gondolo with diamond case and dial meticulously set with diamonds in a spectacular motif.
Value and Collectability of the Gondolo
New, pre-owned and certified pre-owned Gondolo watches continue to attract watch lovers thanks to their strong lines, innovative geometrics and timeless style. Most of the versions house mechanical movements, but some offer quartz calibers.
Astute shoppers can find the more elaborately shaped pre-owned Gondolo watches for between $12,000 and $20,000, while square version can be found for between $5,000 and $10,000, depending on the strap/bracelet and movement.
New Patek Philippe Gondolo versions retail for far more, especially since most are elaborately set with diamonds and one model even features a pearl bracelet.
The purchase of a Patek Philippe Gondolo watch is a purely personal choice when it comes to the model. There are so many choices on the market thanks to the diversity of the collection over the years and to the length of time the line has been made.
Care and Maintenance of the Patek Philippe Gondolo Watch
Because of the diversity of Gondolo watches found on the market, there is no single care or service guide. However, like all fine watches, the Gondolo timepieces should be serviced by authorized Patek Philippe retailers only. This will ensure that only Patek Philippe parts are used during the servicing.
Additionally, since most of the Gondolo watches offer time only (with no additional functions), there is no need to worry about the time of day one opts to set the watch (as with a calendar or date watch). However, it is important not to put undue stress on the crown and winding stem.
Watchmaker's Perspective
The movement in Patek Philippe's Gondolo is extremely small and thin, but boasts a multitude of very interesting features. The Caliber 215 PS is a manual winding movement, measuring 21.9mm by 2.55mm thick. It utilizes 18 jewels and runs at a rate of 28,800 oscillations per hour.
The balance wheel in the Caliber 215 P S is special and deserves close attention. The first patent for this unique balance, called the Gyromax, was granted to Patek Philippe in 1949, and the first movement using it was released in 1952. The Gyromax is a free sprung balance, meaning that the balance cock does not have a regulator that adjusts regulating pins. Instead, the watchmaker adjusts the natural oscillating frequency of the balance by slightly rotating the eight eccentric gold weights located on the top of the balance rim. This adjustment changes the moment of inertia of the Gyromax balance wheel, causing it to run faster or slower.
A real-world example of this is a figure skater. Imagine a figure skater spinning in place. Often, we see them speed up or slow down by moving their hands outwards or keeping them close to their body. The Gyromax balance does the same thing and ensures that the Patek Philippe's Gondolo keeps precise time.